Each Cook Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.

Amanda Vang
Amanda Vang

Award-winning journalist with over a decade of experience covering international affairs and investigative reporting.